Accessories
Accessories
Sidney Garber Jewelry: The Chicago House Founded in 1946
Sidney Garber, the son of a watch repairman, opened his own jewelry shop in Chicago's Mallers Building in 1946 after returning from Air Force service in World War II. He built the house by traveling to European ateliers in Paris, Valenza and Idar-Oberstein to source stones and craftsmanship directly, a habit his daughter Brooke Garber Neidich continued after she inherited the company in 2008 and moved its center of gravity to include a New York boutique.
Goshwara Jewelry
Sweta Jain launched Goshwara in 2005 in New York, after a childhood spent traveling with her gemstone-dealer father to mines in Africa and later training in jewelry design at the Fashion Institute of Technology. The label is built around color first: bold, often unexpected gemstone pairings designed and manufactured entirely in New York.
Tacit Jewelry by Michelle Fantaci
TACIT jewelry is the fine jewelry line from Michelle Fantaci, a New York jeweler in business under her own name since 2007. I go through the balloon-inspired pendants, earrings and bracelets, all made with 18k gold, ceramic-coated silver and traceable diamonds.
Odissi
Odissì is a footwear label built in 2024 by HIM Co., an Italian manufacturer near Venice with about sixty years of shoemaking behind it, as a way to move from private-label production into a brand of its own. The label is built around a stated idea of Italian craft filtered through global references.
Graziela Jewelry
Graziela Kaufman grew up in Brazil around the country's gemstone-mining regions before founding her eponymous fine jewelry line, building direct relationships with miners she still works with today. What distinguishes the brand is that sourcing comes first, with two gemstone variants she identified even trademarked as Midnight Aquamarine and Graziela Tourmaline.
Silvia Furmanovich: Marquetry Jewelry in 18K Gold
Silvia Furmanovich is a São Paulo-raised jeweler known for marquetry, wood veneers cut into flowers and animals and set in gold. I look at her earrings and the crafts from Japan and India behind each collection.
Emme Parsons Shoes
Emme Parsons was a graphic designer and art director in New York, working on brands like Theory and Lucky magazine, before she moved to Los Angeles and launched her eponymous footwear label in 2017 with just three sandal styles. She had no formal shoemaking training, so she took a one-day workshop at a Los Angeles shoe-repair shop before her first samples were even cut, and every pair is still made by a family-run factory in Italy.
Salomon Shoes
Salomon was founded in 1947 in Annecy, France, by François Salomon, who began by making wood saw blades and steel ski edges with his wife and son Georges in a small workshop. Georges pushed the company toward skiing specifically, patenting safety bindings and eventually the first rear-entry ski boot, and that same engineering-first approach now defines the trail and outdoor shoes the brand is known for.
Marlo Laz Jewelry
Jesse Marlo Lazowski grew up in Hartford, Connecticut, learning antique jewelry from her great-aunt before a trip to Jaipur, India in 2012 sent her to work directly with local artisans, and she launched Marlo Laz in New York in 2014 with a coin-inspired design called the Talisman. After studying at the Gemological Institute of America and apprenticing with a manufacturer in Manhattan's Diamond District, she built a line around symbols collected on her travels, hearts, eyes, elephants, horseshoes, that read as universal rather than tied to one culture.
DRU. Jewelry
Thea Miller left a twenty-year teaching career in 2016 to launch her Los Angeles jewelry label, DRU., full time. She builds every piece around symbols and short, pointed mantras meant to read as armor rather than decoration, and makes it all in Downtown Los Angeles.
Piranesi Jewelry
Abraham Hajibay started what became Piranesi in 1845, an Italian jewelry house that his family carried from Valenza and Milan all the way to Rockefeller Plaza in New York in 1976. The house is now on its fifth generation under Miriam Hajibay, who once collaborated on sketches with Elizabeth Taylor for a namesake collection, and it still centers on one-of-a-kind pieces built from fine gemstones and diamonds.
Elior Jewelry
Elior Mordechai started learning the jewelry trade at fourteen, interning summers at his family's wholesale diamond business before training in metalsmithing at the Fashion Institute of Technology and in design at the New York Jewelry Design Institute. His pieces lean maximalist and pattern-heavy, a sensibility he traces to his Persian heritage and a grandfather who dealt in Middle Eastern antiques.
EF Collection Jewelry
Emily Faith Strauss started EF Collection in Los Angeles in 2010, initially curating other designers' jewelry for trunk shows before she began designing her own pieces by 2013. The line took its name from her own initials and built a following on 14 karat gold and diamonds in stacking, huggie and charm formats that read as fine jewelry without the stiffness.
Engelbert Jewelry
Heribert Engelbert, a trained goldsmith, opened his jewelry business in Stockholm in 1920, and the company has stayed in family hands for four generations since. It survived a mid-century pivot into wedding and engagement jewelry set with diamonds at a time when Scandinavian bands were traditionally plain gold, plus a stint operating a Fifth Avenue office in New York in the 1960s under brothers Lars and Peter Engelbert.
Real Fine Studio: Jewelry by Stylist Eliza O'Connor
Eliza O'Connor, a Brisbane-born stylist, started what became Real Fine Studio in Los Angeles in 2021, making custom jewelry for styling clients who were tired of standard industry markups. It grew from Instagram-DM commissions into an heirloom-styled fine jewelry label, with early pieces picked up by working stylists and worn by a run of recognizable names within its first year.
Le Sundial Jewelry: Agate, Pearl and Jade From a Milan Label
Le Sundial jewelry was started in Milan by Silvia Dusci after a career in communications. I picked the agate, pearl and jade necklaces and earrings.
Charms Company
Begum Yalcin, an Istanbul native who trained in fashion design at Milan's Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti, launched Charms Company in 2013 while she was still finishing school. The line works almost entirely in solid gold, baroque pearls and diamonds, taking heirloom shapes and squaring them off into something cleaner and less fussy.
Kentshire
Benson Imberman opened the United States Silver Company in midtown Manhattan in 1940, and three generations of his family have run what is now Kentshire ever since. The business pivoted from silver to English and European antique furniture and, by the 1980s, to the fine antique and estate jewelry that eventually became its focus, sold through a standing boutique inside Bergdorf Goodman since 1988.
Melissa Kaye Jewelry
Melissa Kaye spent a decade as a quantitative strategist at Goldman Sachs, with an engineering degree from MIT and a computational finance master's from Carnegie Mellon, before enrolling in the two-year jewelry design program at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology and launching her eponymous fine jewelry line in 2013. Her training shows less in ornament than in structure, diamond-set pieces built on clean, architectural lines that only loosened up once she began introducing color through enamel later in the decade.
Mason & Books: Jamie Books' 14K Gold and Diamond Jewelry
Mason & Books is a New York jewelry label that designer Jamie Books launched in 2021 after roughly fifteen years in luxury accessories. I look at the 14K gold, diamond and pearl pieces, where bows and bugs inspired by her kids sit beside the craft.
NeverNoT Jewelry
NeverNoT was founded in 2018 in London by Georgian-born friends Nina Dzhokhadze, who had worked in sales and business development at Burberry and Stephen Webster, and Natia Chkhartishvili, a stylist who had previously run her own accessories brand. The specific thing that makes the label recognizable is its mix of large, precious stones with bold enamel and neon color, built to make fine jewelry feel like an everyday object rather than a special occasion one.
KHEPRI Jewelry
Reema Chopra founded Khepri Jewels in New York in 2023 after leaving a career that ran from private banking at CIBC to years of diamond wholesaling and gemstone sourcing on the city's diamond district, and getting GIA-certified as a gemologist along the way. The brand is named for the ancient Egyptian sun god of rebirth, and that idea is literal in its origin story: Chopra's first meaningful piece came from repurposing a friend's engagement ring into a necklace after a divorce.
Sheryl Lowe Jewelry
Sheryl Lowe started making jewelry as a teenager in 1970s Southern California, then spent decades working as a Hollywood makeup artist on more than thirty films before turning her hobby into a real business after a 2006 favor for California First Lady Maria Shriver. She made fifty five beaded, pave diamond necklaces for a women's conference gift bag, the orders that followed pushed her out of her dining room and into an actual studio, and she still hand-selects gemstones and beads collected on her own travels.
Sorellina Jewelry
Sisters Nicole and Kim Carosella, both New York natives, launched Sorellina in the early 2010s, starting with pieces made by melting down and resetting stones from their mother's old jewelry. Nicole trained in jewelry fabrication at FIT while Kim handled the business side, and the label's name, Italian for younger sister, nods to their own family shorthand as much as their heritage.