Chanel, From COCO CRUSH to COLLECTION N°5: Where to Start

Chanel's story begins in Paris in 1910, when Gabrielle Chanel opened her first hat boutique. I like starting there because the house's fine jewelry still speaks through a handful of clear design ideas.

 

I sort seven collections from the quilted lines of COCO CRUSH to the number five traced in gold and diamonds, then say where I would start.

 

Each grid below is one Chanel collection, so you can go straight to the line you care about.

In Chanel fine jewelry, COCO CRUSH carries the quilted motif the house has used since 1955. I like how the collection keeps that geometry simple across rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and cuffs.

 

I picked eight pieces: a mini ring and bracelet in beige gold, a large beige gold necklace, a small white gold diamond necklace, white gold earrings, a diamond bracelet and beige gold cuff, plus a white gold diamond mini ring.

 

A practical tip: the mini forms keep the motif close and are the easiest place to begin if I want one piece. What I would skip is stacking the cuff with other strongly patterned bracelets, since the quilt already carries the detail.

In Chanel fine jewelry, Camélia starts with Gabrielle Chanel's favorite flower, whose geometric curves can look natural or abstract. I find the line softer than the more linear motifs.

 

I picked eight pieces: Extrait de Camélia earrings, a necklace and two bracelets, a Bouton de Camélia necklace and earrings, a Bouton ring and a Camélia Bloom ring. Rose, yellow and white gold appear across the grid, with diamonds on most pieces.

 

A practical tip: the Extrait pieces are my first stop if I want a small floral shape. What I would skip is buying every flower form at once, since a single Camélia piece already makes the motif clear.

In Chanel fine jewelry, Ruban turns the ribbon, a signature element of the house's style, into coiled, laced and asymmetrical forms. I like its sense of movement more than perfect symmetry.

 

I picked eight pieces: three rings, two crawling earrings and three short necklaces, in rose or white gold with diamonds.

 

A practical tip: the short necklace keeps the ribbon close to the collarbone. What I would skip is layering another large bow or ribbon shape directly beside it.

In Chanel fine jewelry, Comète follows the comet motif from Gabrielle Chanel's 1932 Bijoux de Diamants presentation. I like the way the starry shapes are arranged to sit close to the body.

 

I picked eight pieces: two Comète Géode necklaces, the Géode earrings and bracelet, Comète Couture earrings and bracelet, plus Étoile Filante earrings and necklace. All eight use white gold and diamonds.

 

A practical tip: the smaller Géode necklace is my first choice for an everyday scale. What I would skip is mixing all the star pieces together, since one can carry the motif.

Chanel's fine jewelry story began in 1932 with Gabrielle Chanel's Bijoux de Diamants presentation, built around comet and diamond themes. The four pieces here carry that reference through names that include Comète 1932.

 

I picked four pieces: the transformable necklace, transformable earrings, single ear cuff and ring, all in white gold with diamonds.

 

A practical tip: I would start with the transformable necklace because Chanel lists it as a piece designed to be worn in two ways. What I would skip is a second transformable piece until I know how I will wear the first.

Chanel fine jewelry's Collection N°5 traces the contours of the number five in 18K gold and diamonds. I like the way the Extrait pieces keep the numeral more direct, while Eternal N°5 opens it into longer lines.

 

I picked eight pieces: an Extrait bracelet and necklace, three Eternal N°5 bracelets, an Eternal necklace, ring and single earring. The grid moves through beige, yellow and white gold, each set with diamonds.

 

A practical tip: the Extrait bracelet is my first stop for a small number five. What I would skip is pairing a diamond line bracelet with several other full rows of diamonds unless that is the look I want.

Plume de CHANEL gives Chanel fine jewelry one of its house motifs, the feather, which the brand describes as an emblem since 1932. I like the way the feather form curves across the ring, necklace and earring designs.

 

I picked eight pieces: three rings, two crawling earring styles, a necklace, a pair of earrings and a brooch. Most are in white gold and diamonds, while one ring mixes white and yellow gold.

 

A practical tip: the simpler ring is my first stop if I want the feather close to hand. What I would skip is pinning the brooch beside another large lapel motif.

I would start with the mini beige gold COCO CRUSH ring, because it keeps the quilted line close and gives the edit a clear first step. If I wanted a second piece, I would look at an Extrait de Camélia necklace for a softer motif rather than building a set all at once.

 

For a gift, I would choose earrings or a pendant instead of a ring so sizing is not part of the guess. I would keep fine jewelry in a soft pouch or box, with each piece separated from the next.