Red Lipstick: The Suffragette Story Is a Myth, the Color Is Not

The popular story is that Elizabeth Arden gave red lipstick to suffragettes marching in New York in 1912. Historian Lucy Jane Santos has pointed out that the press coverage of that march does not mention lipstick, even though Arden did take part in the rally. I would rather tell you the true version, which is that red lipstick became a symbol of confidence over decades, not in one parade. After years of nude and berry shades, a true red is the quickest way to look like you know what you are doing.

The right red is the one that looks like it belongs to your skin. Cool undertones suit blue-based reds, warm undertones suit orange-based, and neutral skin can go either way. Dior, Hermès and Gucci Beauty all have classic reds in matte and satin finishes. Prada makes a refillable version, and Charlotte Tilbury does a creamy matte. I have not verified every shade at the product page, so check the color name before you buy. Swatch on the inside of your finger, which is closer to the color of your lips than your wrist.

Red needs a defined edge. Line the lips first with a pencil close to the color, fill in the lips, then blot with a tissue. Apply a second coat and blot again. This makes the color last. Wipe off any smudges with a cotton swab dipped in concealer. Picture her at a counter at an airport in a black coat, reapplying red in a tiny mirror without looking. It takes about thirty seconds once you know the shape of your mouth.

Red lipstick works best with plain clothes. A white tee and jeans, a gray sweater, or a black dress will all do. Keep the eyes simple with a coat of mascara. In our fashion dreams she picks up her dry cleaning in a trench and a bright red mouth, and nobody blinks. If red feels like too much, start with a satin finish, which is less severe than matte. You can also dab it on with a fingertip for a stained look.

I would skip a red that is too orange if you have cool undertones. I would skip heavy lip liner that is darker than the lipstick, which looks dated. And I would skip glossy reds for formal evenings since the shine can feel casual. If your lips are dry, exfoliate gently before you apply. A red lip only looks good on a smooth surface.