Sun Dress: Claire McCardell's 1945 Answer to the New Look

Sun Dress: Claire McCardell's 1945 Answer to the New Look

A sun dress is American sportswear at its easiest, and FIT's timeline shows a 1945 cotton sundress by Claire McCardell held in the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Met. Two years later Dior's New Look arrived, yet young women still chose McCardell's less formal dresses. Here is how to choose a sun dress that works from a beach walk to dinner.

Easy was a radical idea

FIT's timeline of 1940s fashion captions a 1945 cotton sundress by Claire McCardell, tied to the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Met, and says her easy-to-wear designs, including a 1945 striped sundress, stayed successful into the 1950s. FIT adds that Dior's New Look debuted in February 1947 and led the silhouette until the middle of the decade, while young women still chose McCardell's sportswear and less formal designs like sundresses. A sun dress was the relaxed answer, and it still is.

Sun Dress styled editorial photo 1

Fabric for heat

Cotton poplin, linen, seersucker and eyelet breathe best. A lining adds modesty without heat. A smocked bodice stretches and fits many shapes. Straps should be wide enough to hold a bra or hide it, and adjustable ones are a gift. Look at the seams on the bust and the zip, since they take stress.

Sun Dress styled editorial photo 2

Silhouettes worth knowing

A tiered sun dress is playful and a fit-and-flare is classic. A shirtdress version is neat and covers the shoulders. Picture her in a gingham sun dress with a straw bag and leather slides, heading to a farmers market. Choose a length you can walk in and sit in on a bench.

Sun Dress styled editorial photo 3

From beach to dinner

Throw a denim jacket over a sun dress for evening. Swap sandals for a pointed flat and add a gold earring. A wide belt changes the waist. In cooler weather, add a cardigan and tights. A sun dress is the one piece you can pack in a bag and wear three ways.

What I would skip

I would skip a sun dress with stiff, scratchy straps and a bodice that gapes when you lean. If it needs constant tugging in the heat, leave it on the rack.