The Archive Is Calling

The Archive Is Calling

Galliano-era Dior, Tom Ford-era Gucci and Lagerfeld-era Chanel, with Philo's Céline and other influential creative eras

Some creative directors shaped a whole decade of fashion, and their bags are the clearest record of it. This edit covers John Galliano's Dior, the Gucci of the Tom Ford years, Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel and a few pieces from Céline, Balenciaga, Miu Miu and McQueen.

Why Galliano's Dior still matters

John Galliano ran Dior from 1996 to 2011, and the accessories from those years are the loudest in the house's history. The Rasta prints, the Gaucho leather and the Flight denim all belong to him.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Multicolor Rasta Saddle Bag, the Christian Dior White Python Rebelle Hobo and the Christian Dior Brown Trotter Canvas Jeans Pocket Tote Large.

 

I would start with the Saddle in Rasta stripes because it tells you so much about the early 2000s in a single bag. A longer tour sits in The Art of Vintage Dior.

Gucci from the Tom Ford years

Tom Ford led Gucci's design from 1994 to 2004, and the bamboo and horsebit bags of that general period shaped how the house looks to this day. The Abbey and the bamboo totes below come from the early 2000s.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Gucci Black GG Denim Abbey Zip Tote, the Gucci Original GG Canvas D-Ring Abbey Tote Large and the Gucci Black Calfskin Bamboo Basket Bag Mini.

 

The GG canvas, the leather trim and the hardware are the reasons to look. For the full run of the house, see The Gucci Years.

Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld designed Chanel from 1983 until 2019, and his years produced the vinyl Whipstitch flaps, the tweed suits and the sequined pieces of the early nineties. Each one shows how far he was willing to push the house codes.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Chanel Yellow Vinyl Whipstitch Half Flap Jumbo, the Chanel Green Wool-Blend Skirt Suit and the Chanel Green & Brown Woven Tweed Mini Dress.

 

The tweed pieces are the easiest way in, because they work with almost anything. For more from this period, take a look at The Fashion History Edit.

Other creative eras

Some of fashion's most influential eras were short. Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Alexander McQueen Beige Python Knuckle Clutch, the Christian Dior Brown Leather Street Chic Columbus Shoulder Bag and the YSL Black Patent Leather Muse Medium.

 

These are worth knowing for what they say about their time.

How to listen to the archive

The best way to buy from an era is to know who was in charge. Learn the name of the creative director and the year, and the bag starts to make sense.

 

The best way to buy from an era is to know who was in charge. Learn the creative director's name and the years, and the bag starts to make sense on its own. Start with a single piece you can wear every day, and let the rest of the story come to you at its own pace. For more, try The Pieces That Got Away.