The Art of Vintage Dior

The Art of Vintage Dior

Galliano-era Dior Saddles, Diorissimo and Trotter canvas, and the experimental bags that defined the house

Vintage Dior is John Galliano's laboratory. This edit gathers Galliano-era Saddles, Gambler and Rebelle bags, Diorissimo canvas and early-2000s monogram pieces from the house's most experimental years.

What defines a Galliano-era Dior Saddle

A Galliano-era Saddle is the shape he introduced around 2000, in Trotter canvas, Rasta stripes, houndstooth or leather. The curved flap and the chunky D charm are the details to look for.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Green Trotter Canvas Saddle Bag, the Christian Dior Multicolor Trotter Canvas Rasta Saddle Bag and the Christian Dior Navy Trotter Canvas Saddle Pouch.

 

They are louder than the current reissue and a good deal more fun. For the wider story, see The Archive Is Calling.

The experimental Dior bags

Galliano used Dior to try ideas other houses would not test, which is why the Detective, Columbus, Montaigne and Flight bags look so different from one another. Some are in python, some in calfskin and some in denim.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Navy Denim Trotter Flight Pouch, the Christian Dior Brown Trotter Canvas Flight Travel Bag and the Christian Dior Navy Trotter Canvas Jeans Pocket Handbag.

 

I would pick the one with the strongest personality and keep the outfit simple around it. For another view of the house in this period, The Lost Art of the It Bag is a good read.

Diorissimo and the book tote

Diorissimo is the house's embossed canvas line, and the book totes here come in Diorissimo, embroidered jute and floral canvas. The Backgammon set shows how far the house took the idea beyond bags.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Red & Beige Diorissimo Canvas Street Chic Tote, the Christian Dior Navy Trotter Canvas Book Tote Mini and the Christian Dior Navy Trotter Canvas Cigarette Case.

 

They are easy bags to carry daily, which is part of why they were popular. For more details of this kind, see The Extraordinary Details Edit.

Early-2000s monogram pieces

Trotter canvas was Dior's answer to a logo monogram, and in the early 2000s it showed up on totes, pouches, messengers and a Rasta fedora. The Jeans Pocket tote from around 2001 is a particularly good example of the humor.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Rasta Trotter Canvas Canvas Messenger Bag, the Christian Dior Black Canvas Street Chic Tote Large and the Christian Dior Pink Trotter Canvas Tote.

 

For more of that decade, The Y2K Archive has the full picture.

How I would wear vintage Dior

I would wear vintage Dior with something plain. Trotter canvas and denim look natural together, and a Saddle works well with a white shirt and flat boots.

 

Pick one bag and let it set the tone. Galliano designed for drama, so the rest of the outfit should be quiet, and the bag will do the work for you. Whatever you pick, read the listing closely and wear it often.