The Lost Art of the It Bag

The Lost Art of the It Bag

Yves Saint Laurent Muse, Dior Detective and Malice, Fendi Mama and Gucci Abbey, the handbags that defined an era

There was a time when a single handbag could define a season. This edit looks at the Yves Saint Laurent Muse, Dior's Detective and Malice, Fendi's Mama and Chef and Gucci's Abbey and Sukey.

What was the Yves Saint Laurent Muse

The Muse was Yves Saint Laurent's 2006 hit under Stefano Pilati, a soft leather bag with a metal logo plate and a roomy slouch. For a few seasons it was carried everywhere, in black, red and a long list of exotic finishes.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the YSL White Leather Muse Large, the YSL Beige Raffia Rive Gauche Tote and the YSL Brown Linen Rive Gauche Bucket Tote.

 

For more bags that defined a moment, see The Fashion History Edit.

Dior Detective, Malice and Street Chic

They were everywhere in the early 2000s and then quietly left. Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Brown Canvas Trotter Street Chic Boston, the Christian Dior White Calfskin Detective Mini and the Christian Dior Rasta Trotter Coated Canvas Messenger Bag.

 

They feel very specific now, which is part of the charm. I would wear a Street Chic tote on its own, with nothing matching. For the bigger Galliano picture, try The Archive Is Calling.

Fendi Baguette, Mama and Chef

Fendi's Baguette started the conversation in 1997, and its roomier siblings in Zucca canvas followed. The Baguette in beads, sequins, pony hair and embossed leather shows how far the house pushed one small shape.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Fendi Brown Zucca Coated Canvas B MIx Tote XL, the Fendi Multicolor Beaded Baguette and the Fendi Brown Zucca Canvas Embroidered Baguette.

 

I would choose the plainest silhouette in the brightest finish. For the family in full, The Fendi Archive is the next stop.

Gucci Abbey, Sukey and hobos

They were made in GG canvas with leather trim, and the Jackie Hobo in red wool adds a seasonal twist. Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Gucci Red Wool Jackie Hobo, the Gucci Brown Crystal Canvas D-Ring Abbey Tote and the Gucci Gold Original GG Canvas Abbey Tote.

 

The slouchy shape is easy to wear today with anything casual. For how the house moved through the decade, read The Gucci Years.

Why the It bag left

These bags left the mainstream because fashion moved on, not because they stopped being good. That is also why they feel fresh when you carry one now.

 

Pick the shape you remember best, choose it in a color you would wear daily, and use it. An It bag was always meant to be seen in the street, and these still turn heads there.